Alocasia Polly

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A few feet from the glass, or behind a sheer curtain, it grows at its best. Lower light slows it down without stopping it, and direct sun scorches those dark leaves.

Those dark, glossy shields show sunburn fast: direct sun can scorch patches into the leaf (NC State). Morning sun from an east window is gentle enough, and from a south or west window, leave the shields a good stretch of floor between them and the pane.

UConn’s greenhouse collection describes its kind as an aroid of low-light areas, so a dimmer spot will do, though new leaves may come slowly.

New leaves tend to open facing the window, so the fan of shields can lean one way. If that bothers you, give the pot a turn now and then; it grows fine either way.

Bright, never sunny: that’s the deal it strikes.

Every 5-7 days in summer, stretching to 7-12 in winter, with the top of the soil drying between. Skipping a day costs it less than staying soggy, which can rot roots and stem.

Those arrowhead edges are where dry air shows first: they can brown, and spider mites move in (RHS). If that bothers you, a spot away from radiators and vents, or among other plants, may help. It’ll survive either way.

Come a dark December, it may go quiet and drop leaves, stalk and all, then send up fresh ones in spring (RHS). The RHS advises cutting water to a minimum while it rests; overwatering is what rots alocasia roots.

Gone for a while? A week is its limit: water it the day you leave, and ask someone to check on it if you’ll be gone longer.

Each leaf rides up and out on its stalk, so the purple undersides show from a sofa or chair. It spreads about 2 feet tall and as wide, so give it a side table with room on every side.

Every leaf rides alone on a long, sturdy stalk (NC State), so it grows as a fan of shields rather than a leafy mound. That open shape reads best seen from the side: a credenza, a bar counter, a reception desk near a window.

'Polly' is the pocket edition of its hybrid. The full-size plant can reach 1-1.5 meters, about 3-5 feet (RHS), while NC State describes 'Polly' as the compact selection.

NC State lists division as the way to propagate it: once the clump crowds its pot, pull it apart at the roots and pot each piece.

A chewed leaf can leave a dog’s or cat’s mouth sore and swollen, with drooling or vomiting, and can upset a child’s mouth and stomach. It’s the kind of trouble that usually passes on its own.

Every part of it carries calcium-oxalate crystals, sap included (NC State). They’re tiny needles, which is why the trouble shows up right where a leaf is chewed. The lips, tongue, and throat take it, sometimes with trouble swallowing for a while. Its bigger relatives show how much those crystals matter. Their corms and stems are eaten in some places, but only once thorough cooking has destroyed the crystals (NC State).

The sap can also redden skin or sting eyes, so gloves make repotting kinder on your hands.

Most chews end with a sore mouth and some drool. If symptoms don’t settle, or anything worries you, Poison Control can help with a child, and your vet or ASPCA Animal Poison Control (a fee may apply) can help with a pet.

With a toddler or a determined chewer at home, give it a spot that’s yours, not theirs: a dresser in a room with a door, or a high side table. Each leaf rides up and out on its own stalk, so it still shows off from across the room.

1. ASPCA: mild for dogs (rates the whole genus).
2. Merck Veterinary Manual: mild for dogs (rates the whole genus).
3. Pet Poison Helpline: mild for dogs (rates the whole genus).
4. ASPCA: mild for cats (rates the whole genus).
5. Merck Veterinary Manual: mild for cats (rates the whole genus).
6. Pet Poison Helpline: mild for cats (rates the whole genus).
7. NC State Extension: mild for kids.

Cats and dogs: Most of the leading sources agree.

Kids: Sources disagree (NC State toxic, Poison Control mild, UC ANR mild; the majority wins, a tie goes lower).

Keep it at 60-85°F. Keep it away from cold glass in winter. It wants at least 40% humidity.

Temperature

60-85°F

Spider mites are the common ones, and they sit on the leaf undersides. Mealybugs tuck into the stalk bases, leaf axils, and the crown at soil level, while aphids prefer new unfurling leaves and young stalks.

• Spider mites
• Mealybugs
• Aphids

More prone than most. Spider mites are the big one, so check under the leaves every week or two; mealybugs and aphids turn up too, and rot if the soil stays wet.

Spider mites leave fine webbing and a pale, speckled look, mostly in warm, dry air. Rinse the whole plant in the shower, undersides of the leaves included, and raise the humidity. If they come back, an insecticidal soap is the next step.

Mealybugs look like tufts of white cotton where the stalks meet; aphids are small, soft bugs on new leaves. Wipe either off with a cotton swab dipped in rubbing alcohol, then check again next week.

Root rot and bacterial stem rot come from soggy soil: stalks go soft and mushy at the base. Cut off the soft ones, let the soil dry a little, and water less often from then on.

Feed every 2-3 weeks from spring to autumn, skipping winter. Wipe both sides of the leaves every other month, and cut yellowed ones at the base. Repot in spring about every other year, only if roots crowd.

• Feed10× a year
• Repot1× a year
• Prune6× a year
• Clean leaves6× a year

A rich, loose potting mix that holds some moisture but drains fast, in a pot with a drainage hole.

Repot only when the roots fill the pot, in spring or summer while it’s growing, with gloves on.

Food helps while it’s growing: a houseplant fertilizer at half strength regularly through spring and summer, and none in winter.

Deep green arrowheads are etched with silver veins, and the undersides are purple. The surface is glossy and waxy, and the leaves fill out enough to cover part of the soil.